Savoring the Seasons

Ever notice as the seasons change, certain food items aren't as easily obtainable as they once were? As we rapidly approach Fall, some of our favorite fruits and vegetables will disappear from the local markets until next summer. Blueberries, for example, will only be around for another week or so at the local farm I like to patron.

When this happens, that's when I like to perform the age-old tradition of canning or preserving. This technique has lost a lot of attention, but I'm determined to bring it back. I remember as a little child, my grandmother going out to the garden and picking either tomatoes and cucumbers (or whatever else that had reached its maturity) and bringing it in to the kitchen to preserve for the months that they would not be available. My grandfather even built what was then called a "wash-house" to store the many jars of preserved foods. I often thought, as a kid, that little building looked like a mini general store at times.

Those times and memories are some of the reasons why I became a chef to begin with. Thus, since I am a chef, I really appreciate the effort that goes into canning. From resourcing fresh and local produce, and showing support to those local farmers, to the labor that's involved with producing the canned products. Recently, my wife and I, spent an entire day visiting local farms, obtaining all the fresh produce that we could. We spent the next four days making pickles, jams, jellies, marmalade's, fresh salsas, stewed tomatoes, just to name a few. Not only is it self-gratifying to do it ourselves, but we also know that the products are fresh, sustainable, and chemical free, not to mention the affordability.

So, as I mentioned blueberries earlier, one of the items we canned was a fresh blueberry jam. For the little amount of money we spent, we ended up with about ten jars full. That should definitely last us till next blueberry season. Matter of fact, we got so many jars of different items, that we've planned to go to the local farmer's market to share the "fruits" of our labor.

My style of Pho

I've studying food for quite a while now and have a particular interest in the Asian style. I love, appreciate, and am fascinated by the cultures, architecture, traditions, and especially the cuisines of the said style. When WOKSTAR asked for people to join her in this pho "project", I was elated to take part. The style of pho I wanted to produce includes one of my favorite foods: Roast Duck.

For the Roast Duck:
1 6lb whole duck, Long Island preferred
2 cups boiling-hot water
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 425°F.
Rinse duck inside and out and remove any excess fat from neck, tail, or cavity. Poke skin all over with the point of a sharp pairing knife. Fold neck skin under body, then put duck, breast side up, on a rack in a deep roasting pan and pour boiling-hot water over duck to tighten up the skin. Let duck sit and allow to cool and pour out any water from cavity into pan. Pat duck dry inside and out and season with salt and pepper. Place duck inside oven, breast side up, for approximately 30-45 minutes. Rotate duck and roast for another 30-45 minutes. Flip up duck to drain any liquid from cavity into pan. Rotate back to original position and continue to roast duck until skin is brown and crisp. When duck is finished roasting, allow duck to drain any more liquid into pan. Transfer duck to a cutting board and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes before carving. Once meat is removed reserve bones for broth.

For the broth:

Bones of the duck
3 oz shredded carrots
1/2 medium onion, julienne
1 leek, dark green parts cut and discarded, cut 3" julienne
1/4 cup fish sauce
1 qt chicken stock
1 qt beef stock
1 knob of ginger
1 lemon grass stalk, crushed with back of knife
2 ounces whole star anise pods
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 whole cloves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, lightly crushed
1 tablespoon white sugar
Sea salt to taste

Place the duck bones in a stock pot. Season with salt, and fill pot with chicken and beef broth. Add in vegetables. Bring to a boil, and cook for about 2 hours. Assemble the anise pods, cinnamon stick, cloves, peppercorns and ginger in a bouqet garni or place in a spice bag; add to the soup. Stir in sugar, salt and fish sauce. Simmer for at least 4 hours. Check broth for seasoning. Strain broth and keep hot.

For the vegetable ganish:

4 Shiitake Mushroom caps, sliced julienne and lightly saute
2 oz shredded Napa cabbage
1/4 red onion, sliced paper thin
2 Serrano chiles, sliced paper thin
1/2 cup cilantro, roughly chopped

1/2 lb Lo mein noodles (what I used this time)

1 gl boiling salt water

Cook noodles in boiling water for approximately 10-12 minutes. Strain and run cold water over noodles to stop cooking process.

To assemble pho:

I place noodles and duck meat into bottom of bowl. Next, pour hot broth over noodles to heat through. Add vegetable garnishes of choice and enjoy!

For some time now, I've noticed that ALOT of my dishes that I've been preparing are, in some way, connected to the pig. Whether its rendered bacon fat for a soup or sauce, or smoked hog jowls for beans or greens. I even made spring rolls filled with smoked chicken and Virginia Ham (delicious by the way).

There are alot of opinions about pork, good and bad. For instance, Some people consider the pig to be a filthy animal. To this I say, what animal isn't? That's why their called animals. A cow's flatuance and constant regurgitation is enough to make anyone sick, but everyone (non-vegetarian that is) has no problem with grilling up a nice hamburger. And chickens, seriously? Don't get me wrong, both are just as delicious, but there seems to be something a little more special about pork.

The applications are endless. From dried pig ears for dogs, to using the intestines as sausage casings. OK, maybe not a good example, but true nonetheless. My favorite parts are the belly and the cheeks. When prepared right, they are the most tender, delicious parts ever. And if you can swing it, upgrade to the Berkshire or Kurobuta style. Its what Kobe is to beef.

The most famous application is obviously bbq. Nothing beats a whole roasted pig cooking on wood-fired grill for hours on end, slopped with a vinegar-based mop sauce. To have the pleasure of attending a "pig-pickin" is a sight to be hold. Sampling all what the pig has to offer in one seating....priceless.

Favorite BBQ joints: The Pit, Raleigh, NC; Jeanette's Place, Clanton, AL; Little Pigs, Myrtle Beach,SC; Dreamland BBQ, Birmingham, AL; just to name a few.

Old dog, new tricks?

Is it true that you can't teach an old dog new tricks? Or is it just that the old dog doesn't want to learn?

By now everyone has heard of the term"molecular gastronomy" and this style of cookery has made quite a few chefs very famous. Homaru Cantu started making edible menus, while Wylie Defresne whipped up "fried mayonnaise" and Grant Achatz seared mango puree on an "anti-griddle". I believe Ferran Adria, of El Bulli, is considered to be the "father" of said cookery. Adria even has branded his own line of chemicals called Texturas (which I happen to have in my own pantry).

I happen to be very intrigued by this form of culinary art and have experimented with a few techniques. However, when conversing with older colleagues, their response is typically the same: "It's on its way out" and "that's just a fad". One associate even said "it's not even cooking at all". My question is, why do some chefs find this style offensive? With today's society, people are looking for the next best thing. I don't believe this is taking away from the art of cooking, but is just a new chapter in the big book of gastronomy.

My father has always said "you never stop learning...either you learn what to do or what not to do". So isn't that what this is all about? Trial and error? Experimenting to see what you are capable of? So to the old and new "dogs" I say there's nothing wrong with bringing something new to the table, so keep doing what you do best.